Piemonte
Barbaresco
Cantina del Pino has emerged, seemingly recently, as one of the most important producers of Barbaresco. However their vineyard and family history could not be more intertwined with the history of Barbaresco. The very first wine labeled as Barbaresco, made by the "father" of Barbaresco, the renowned enologist Domizio Cavazza in 1894, was made from the Ovello Vineyard that Renato Vacca's great-great grandfather purchased from him a few years later and the family has owned ever since. Cavazza owned the estate, formerly known as Cascina Ovello, another nearby parcel, and also the castle. When his first son was born he planted a Pine tree at the top of Ovello and over time it became known as Cantina del Pino. That tree, depicted on the label, still stands today. The bulk of their current vineyard land is on the historic cru “Ovello” in the commune of Barbaresco. Ovello’s elevation, exposure, both to the sun and the climate moderating effects of the nearby Tanaro river, vine age (80 years) and soil mix all contribute to the combination of finesse, complexity and power evident in the wines of Cantina del Pino. Ovello has a long track record of producing one of the most complex and elegant Barbaresco's. The estate has been acquiring new vineyards over the last few years spread around the village of Nieve. One, just a couple of hundred yards from Vigneto Santo Stefano in Albesani, which has been long considered a Grand Cru of the Nieve part of the Barbaresco zone. It is a very dark and powerful wine (though made in the exact same way) and so very complementary in the line to the incredible finesse of the Ovello. In its first release as a single vineyard bottling it garnered both a Tre Bicchierri award and a 95+ score (like the Ovello) from Galloni in the Wine Advocate
Robert Parker’s - The Wine Advocate -"Renato Vacca has emerged as one of the leading lights in Barbaresco". and "Cantina del Pino is one of the very few estates in Barbaresco where every single wine is fabulous."-A.Galloni
They also have sections of other well regarded cru's such as Starderi and Gallina which contribute to their "Classic" bottling. At most other estates in the DOCG region these would be single vineyard bottlings at much higher prices.
Diano D’ Alba
Casavecchia's winery is in Diano where they grow Dolcetto and where it enjoys DOCG status along with Dogliani and Ovada. They also have vineyards in Castiglione Falletto for Nebbiolo, most notably the east facing MGA of Pianta'. About 10 hectares all in. It's a project of three brothers Marco (agronomist), Luca (enologist) and Carlo (rather famous consulting enologist). It's no secret that Dolcetto reaches the height of it's expression in Diano, Dogliani & Ovada with Diano perhaps having the greatest aging potential. These two "Sori" bottlings made me do an "exorcist-style" head spin. The Nebbiolo "Piadvenza" is a Barolo for all intents and purposes. It is definitely not the style that is intended to be young, fresh & pretty. (almost pinot -like). A little or maybe not even so little Barolo. "Steal these wines", all 3 !
Colli Tortonesi
The Colli Tortonesi zone (the hills of Tortona) is something of a small Island of great wines, off the beaten path of the better known Piemontese wine zones. It is not a part of the Langhe, nor the Monferrato hills, but further east and way south of what is commonly referred to as Alto Piemonte. Here as in the Monferatto hills, Barbera is the star red grape and Barbera from this region is truly compelling from the top producers. But perhaps the reason we should all be paying attention to the area is perhaps the best Italian white wines of all made from a rare indigenous grape called Timorasso. It is labelled however as Colli Tortonesi Bianco.
When it comes to Timorasso, Claudio Mariotto is a truly a star producer, the absolute best in my opinion. His Timorasso wines have grown to 4 separate bottlings. As always, "Pitasso" is the flagship. More selective methods/choices of what goes into it are being applied as the vineyard also just gets older. Same for "Cavallina" as it has proved to be a superb site now that the vines are approacing 20 years old. Derthona is still a blend of these two sites as well as some others. What is brand new is the young vine "Bricco san Michele" vineyard, which seems just like Cavallina when the vines were younger. It will surely prove in time to be another superb vineyard but for now it's the bargain of the line up. And for Barbera, "Vho" continues to be the standout.
Agliano Terme
Renata Bonacina is the force behind this superb winery from the Asti zone of the Monferrato. Founded in 1997, it is a relatively young winery that has quickly attained a very prestigious reputation. The key here is very attentive, low yield, organic (certified) viticulture in predominately old vine vineyards. The large majority of the production is dedicated to the classic indigenous varieties from the area. The flagship wine of the zone is Nizza Monferrato DOCG. They bottle a Nizza and in some vintages, a Nizza Riserva, from a vineyard now approaching 70 years of age, as well as 2 other interpretations of 100% Barbera. In addition is one of the "benchmark" bottlings of Ruche di Castagnole Monferato along with superb Grignolino D'Asti. Ian D'Agata not only holds their Ruche up as perhaps the ultimate example of Ruche, but in good vintages, one of Italy's 30 best wines.
Barolo
(Available in Connecticut & Rhode Island Only)
With characteristic flair for the obvious, I’ll state that we at Artisan Wines really like Barolo. When you are into something so deeply it can be nagging to have a set of something that is incomplete. Now we have gathered over nearly two decades, quite a compelling collection of the finest vineyards in Barolo that includes; Monvigliero, Gramolere, San Lorenzo, Le Rocche & Bussia, yet something was missing and its absence quite obvious because at the outset of the company, these sites were a part of the portfolio. So there was this gaping existential hole. While humans are known to get into all manner of things to fill the voids they feel in their lives, from religion to drugs, excessive exercising to binging on chocolate, I buy Barolo. Cannubi and Brunate to put a finer point on it. Any connoisseur of the wines of Piemonte will tell you that Cannubi and Brunate are the two most important sites of the village of Barolo, and some of the most important of the entire zone.
So it is with great pleasure that I can announce that the historic house of Rinaldi, one of the oldest of Barolo, (the entire zone) established in 1870 is returning to the fold. With 2.4 Hectares in Cannubi, 2 in Brunate and 3 more made of small slices of Sarmassa and Vignane (also in Barolo), Rocche dell’Anunziata in La Morra and Codana in Castiglione Falletto, the viticultural patrimony of this most historic of houses is YUGE! The house style is and always has been VERY traditional. Today the estate is in it's fourth generation of Barolo production and run by two sisters, Paola and Piera. These wines, although quite traditional are also quite elegant.
Serralunga D’Alba - Localita Gabutti
Serralunga has long been associated with big, powerful, densely fruited and substantially tannic Barolo. Boasso does not dissapoint except in the area of tannicity, which IMHO is not a dissappointment at all. These wines are eminently drinkable. I have noticed a progression at this estate over the last 5 years away from the more tannic style that Serralunga and Gabutti specifically has been associated with in the past. Part climate change aiding fully ripened tannins no doubt and a part passing of the reins of the estate from the father to his sons. Franco Boasso has vinified more than 50 harvests on this famous hill in Serralunga, which his winery takes as a namesake. His two sons Ezio and Claudio are in charge now and an evolution towards more graceful wines is very evident. A scant 2000 cases from 7 Hectares is all there is here, so if you have not heard of them prior, that is one reason. This west facing part of Serralunga is quite special. To quote Gambero Rosso's 2020 book, "Their vineyards, all in Serralunga, are among the most celebrated in Barolo, with the Gabutti cru standing out for it's force, ageworthiness and aromatic richness." Often a contrarian, though I love the Gabutti, I am wild about their less famous cru Margheria, slightly to the south near Vigna Rionda. Rounding out the MGA sanctioned Barolo cru's that they farm is Meriame, which abuts Cerretta and glances Baudana. This however is not currently bottled as a cru but rather is a large part of the "Commune di Serrralunga" bottling. As an Azienda Agricola, by law they must use prodominately their own estate grapes, which in this case are all red. Moscato and Arneis, made from purchased fruit are bottled under the "I Grappoli" second label.
Verduno
(Available in Connecticut & Rhode Island Only)
This family has been making Barolo continuously for more than 100 years. Experience combined with a fresh approach introduced by young Vittore (in charge of vinification since 2001) that defies being defined as either traditional or modern, has brought this estate to the highest level in Barolo. The vineyards of Verduno are predisposed toward elegant, “Burgundian” styled Barolo, and the meticulous low yield farming they employ adds a hint of power to the natural finesse. Only the "Gramolere" Barolo bottling comes from outside the commune of Verduno. That is a cru from Monforte that has been in his mother's family for generations and while it shows the darker fruit tones associated with the area, the house style or Vittore's hand of finesse is very evident. They are simply stunning across the board; power, complexity, elegance and value, yes you can have them all. Their Pelaverga is a benchmark for the tiny DOC and all of the wines are exceptionally well made. From Antonio Galloni in Vinous (Feb 2021), "Vittore Alessandria's 2017 Barolos are among the finest wines of the vintage.
Consistency is always a hallmark of top estates, and that is exactly what readers will find here. Alessandria's 2017s are deep, fleshy and full of character. The 2017s spent 30-35 days on the skins, with extended maceration in which the cap is floating, but not totally submerged. The malolactic fermentation was in steel, after which the wines were racked into cask and then bottled with 34 months in oak. "
San Rocco Seno D’Elvio
The Lano winery was one of the first wineries in the Langhe to receive organic certification and had been practicing organic viticulture long before that certification was obtainable. Reason being that the Italian authorities took quite a long time to formalize those regulations. Aside from the fantastic Barbaresco from his tiny piece (1.3 Hectares) of Rocche Massalupo, the Barbera and Freisa wines are benchmarks. To quote Ian D'Agata in a recent "Terroir Sense" article,"Another important fact about Lano is that it makes wine with most of the Langhe’s red grapes and the wines are all exceptional, not something that is so common (most estates, understandably enough, excel with one grape variety or two at most)" Most people think of only 3 communes as being in the Barbaresco zone, yet in fact it includes a small piece of a fourth, that being San Rocco Seno D'Elvio whose wines tend towards early accessability or drinkability.
Boca, Alto Piemonte
Boca is Piemonte's easternmost DOC zone, and with the exception of the also little known area of Sizzano, it's northernmost as well. It is entirely surrounded by a mountainous national park. It forms something of a southerly exposed amphitheatre at 400-500 m elevation, just west of the "Ridiculously " beautiful Lago d'Orta. The stony porhyritic soils are unique in all of Italy and closely resemble those of Cote Rotie. It was once one of Italy's most esteemed wines. In the year 1300, (no typo) a reporter from Novara described it's wines as being "renown since ancient times". Perhaps pre-Roman? There is no clear evidence of Nebbiolo being grown yet in the Langhe that early. Boca the wine, from the town of the same name, had fallen into near extinction. Vineyards were abandoned as folks moved into nearby Novara and Torino for jobs in post WWII Italy. It's vineyards, once famous, were divided with each passing generation into uselessly small plots.
Castiglione Falletto
Monchiero is one of only seven wineries to own a slice of the famed "Rocche di Castiglione" vineyard. This estate has all of the earmarks of one about to "emerge" into the limelight. Several generations involvement in growing grapes as sharecroppers, then independently beginning in the 1950's, followed by bottling in the '70's. In the '80's, Vittorio Monchiero, along with his wife Daniela, after graduation from enology school, began the modern era. And the latest chapter includes the new "young blood" as their two sons Luca and Stefano are joining the efforts. Aside from the aforementioned "Rocche", the roster of vineyards is quite impressive. Also in Cast. Falletto is Montanello which is exposed much like a smaller Villero a short distance to the north. Then there is Pernanno, which along with Pianta', form the northern strip of the east facing vineyards (very important in the new climate) of the town that ends with Rocche. There are other sites in the commune not entitled to a particualr MGA other than "Commune di Castiglione Falletto". Add to that the MGA's in La Morra, Roere di Santa Maria and Ciocchini where the family's grape growing was first started by Vittorio's grandfather. Some parcels in Roddi and Verduno round things out. These are traditional Baroli aged in large botte of Slavonian oak.
Ghemme
This small family estate, in it's fourth generation farming and making wine in the Alto Piemontese district of Ghemme, is a true jewel of Alto Piemontese wine culture. The Platinetti and Fontana families were cultivating vines here in the early 1900's. The two world wars, a very disruptive period (obviously) created a pause, but in the early '70's, it all resumed with new vigor. The current generation of the family is led by Andrea Fontana, the obviously gifted winemaker. The rules allow for a small percentage of Vespolina in Ghemme, (as in nearby Boca) but Andrea has opted to use 100% Nebbiolo for his Ghemme, which makes for an opportunity to also bottle a 100% varietal Vespolina decribed by Antonio Galloni as "an absolute pleasure bomb"! Then there is "Guido" which is an old vine "Maggiorina" field blend. All superb. Having represented Le Piane for 2 decades now, considered by many to be the finest estate in the Alto Piemonte, it has been difficult to find a producer that can keep company with Piane. Until now.
Monforte D’Alba
There is no shortage of great wines in the Langhe. The focus for us has always been delivering great value and typicity as well. Every now and then one stumbles across a winery that delivers Quality, Typicity, Value and is quite unique as well. This tiny, eponomously named Artisanal winery delivers it ALL! From 5.5 hectares situated primarily in Monforte's most prestigous cru, "Bussia" eminates an array of wines that are unmistakably Barolo, yet somehow present a unique textural quality quite unlike any I've tasted before. Silvano spent a decade experimenting with methods to bring out the maximum expression of his unique slice of Bussia. His methods are not easy to classify by any readily known terms such as "Traditional" or "Modern". Classifying the results is far easier. Stupendous and absolutely delicious! Bussia is a pretty large vineyard and Silvano's is the highest part, which sits directly above Pianpolvere Soprano, another of my all time favorite sites in Barolo.
Aside from being fastidiously clean, the two major areas where Silvano verges off onto his own path are extended post fermentation macerations and elevage. In an era where macerating for 30 days is considered quite traditional, what do you call it when one leaves the wine on its skins for up to 95 days? But then the wine goes into 100% French Barriques for the first year, none of it new, and specially treated to provide maximal micro-oxygenation and minimal oak flavor infusion. These are stunning and very unique wines that represent geat value in the ever escalating Barolo zone. Value aside, Enogea magazine, a professional wine periodical in Italy edited by the esteemed Alessandro Masnaghetti named Bolmida "Il Barolista dell' Anno" for 2012 for the consistently high level of quality presented that year.
Castelletto D’Orba
In the southeastern part of the area broadly referred to as the Monferrato hills, is the DOCG zone of Dolcetto D'Ovada. These Dolcetto wines and vines are unlike the others. They are first of all, a different clone of the variety, referred to as "Dolcetto del Penducolo Rosso" or with red stems. It is also locally called other names such as Nibio in dialect and Dolcetto is so ubiquitous here, it's also called Uva di Ovada. It's bunches and berries are smaller and is generally thought to be the most ancient bio type and the parent of the others. The "Original Dolcetto" in other words. The production zone is in the foothills of the Ligurian Alps and as such, the area is referred to as Alto Monferrato. It is also a truly superb area to grow Barbera. All of the wines grown here tend to be dense and forceful when young and are best released with additional age, as is the custom of Tacchino.
The Tacchino winery is an estate of 25 hectares, half of which are planted to vines, the rest in woods. When this vintage (2023) is released, they will have been granted their certification of sustainability from SQPNI, although they have been farming the same way quite a long time. Now in it's third generation, it is run by a brother & sister team of Alessio in the office and Romina Tacchino in the winery. The vineyards sit in an amphitheater shaped site exposed South-East with white calcareous soils, considered ideal for the variety. Tacchino is broadly considered the leading producer of the zone and have earned every kind of accolade in Italy imaginable including 13 Tre Bicchierri awards for both Barbera and Dolcetto. What is nearly un-imaginable is that they are essentially unknown here in the US, something we aim to change.
Serralunga di Crea
La Tenaglia is an historic property fonded in the 17th cent. in the Monferrato hills. Originally the hunting lodge of the mayor of the area, it is nestled snug up against the "Santuario di Crea" a wildlife preserve and UNESCO World Heritage Site. With the highest elevations in the tiny DOC of Monferrato Casalese, Tenaglia is making some stunning wines from what has now grown to 30 hectares of vines. In this area, one expects great Barbera, and they deliver. The suprise however is the stunning Grignolino that forces one to reconsider this rare variety's postion in Piemontese viticulture. The 2017 was awarded a 3 Glass award and it's easy to see why, but the 2018 is even better!
Rosignano Monferrato
A quick ride away from Tenaglia you can find VI.CA.RA.. Here, they are very specialized in Grignolino, dedicating more than half of their vineyard area to this notoriously difficult and "ornery" variety. That emphasis has produced an expertise so evident in the wines, I can easily say they are the best examples of this variety I have found. The project began almost 40 years ago, the "pipe dream" of three childhood friends with the surnames of VIsconti, CAssinis and RAvizza, Today the estate has grown to 70 hectares, 33 under vine and half of that supplying the raw material for these extraordinary wines bottled under the Vicara label. It is Giuseppe Visconti, son of one of the founders, Diego, who has brought this dream to its full realization. The conversion to organic viticulture was a more than a decade ago but certification will occur next year. Giuseppe was instrumental in the formation of the trade-marked Monferace wine. Much like the members of Col Fondo Agricolo in the Veneto, Monferace is an alliance of producers dedicated to raising the quality and potential of Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese . Grignolino aside, the wine critic of "Corrierre della Serra" (read Italy's Asimov in the NY Times) named the Vicara Barbera del Monferrato "Volpuva" the best red wine from Piemonte under 15 Euro. No s**t! This is very serious juice!