Toscana
Castellina
Gabriele & Valeria Buondonno (as this estate is also known) run this tiny fattoria on an ancient site called Casavecchia alla Piazza. The typical range of Tuscan agricultural products are produced here yet the wines are anything but typical. Buondonno's wines present the more elegant, earthy, "Burgundian" personality of Sangiovese. Struck as I was by the quality and character of the wines, the discovery that they are produced on an entirely organic farm only added to their charm. As it should be says Gabriele, who doesn't want anyone to buy his wine because of its organic provenance but because of the wine's intrinsic merit.
Carmignano
Carmignano
Brothers Enrico & Dario Pierazzuoli run these two estates founded by their father beginning in 1970. Since inception, their motto has been "One Bottle of Wine per Vine". While the secret to great wines lying in reduced yields (amongst other factors) is widespread today, that mentality was scarce in 1970 in Tuscany! The first acquisition was Tenuta Cantagallo in the Chianti Montalbano zone, then in 1990 they also purchased Le Farnete in nearby Carmignano. (Cantagallo must be known in the US as Pierazzuoli due to the Gallo folks of CA suing anyone who uses "Gallo"as even a part of a name for a wine) Although the wines have been in the NY market before with other importers, they are finally together under one roof with Artisan. It is a very fitting year to begin this collaboration as Carmignano celebrates the 300th Anniversary of the edict of 1716 by Cosimo de Medici when Carmignano created the first law in the world designed to protect a high quality wine growing zone.
Radda in Chianti
Paolo Cianferoni took over winemaking at his family's 12 hectare property in 1982. Shortly thereafter he began the conversion to organic, quality-driven viticulture. Extremely low yield farming on the unusually exposed west by northwest sloping vineyards at a 500m + elevation, results in an atypical style for Chianti Classico. The wines are dark, dense and brooding, yet fine, revealing their high altitude site, with aging potential well beyond what is commonly expected. These are wines that really shine in warm vinatges and can be acidic in cool ones, yet the cool vintages are becoming a rarer commodity of late
Montalcino
(Available in Connecticut only)
Caprili was one of the early bottlers of Brunello, being number 60 out of what has now grown to about 240. I visited them for the first time in 1986. Giacomo, who is the third generation of the family making wines there was born in 1990, and is in charge of export sales didn't remember! The wines were great then and are even better now. Surrounded by many of the top vineyards in Montalcino such as Gianfranco Soldera's Casse Basse, Gaja's Pieve Santa Restituta etc, Caprili boasts ideally situated old vines and a modern cellar dedicated to traditional production methods. Cask aging is exclusively in large, sometimes very large casks. Although the team at Vinous has been quite complimentary about these wines over the last few years, this years' wines are a real standout. "Vibrant red. Minerals and violet complement lively red cherry and raspberry aromas on the incisive nose. Then enticingly fresh and well-balanced, with captivating violet inner-mouth perfume to the steely red and black fruit flavors that linger impressively. The delicately peppery finish features polished if youthful tannins and noteworthy purity of fruit. Knockout 2015 Brunello, one of the top half dozen of the year." It would be a good bet that the rest of the top half dozen cost at least twice as much.
San Donato in Poggio
This winery makes extraordinary Chianti that is massive and powerful without being at all International in style. Bruno and Natascha Rossini are the father and daughter team behind this project which is relatively new in the sometimes ancient world of Chianti producers. Low yield, organic farming is one of the keys to the power in these wines, their sub-zone is another. They bought the estate in 1979, but did not release wines under their own name until 1995. There are two super tuscans in addition to exemplary Chianti. Corbezzelo is 100% Sangiovese from a special selection of the oldest vines.
Panzano
(Available in Connecticut & Rhode Island only)
Introducing Podere le Cinciole. Le Cinciole is one of the best producers in Panzano which is one of the best areas of the Classico zone. This is a small organic/biodynamic producer making some of the most compelling wines in Chianti today. While Panzano is famous for the ampitheatre shaped “Conca D’Oro” which is south and south west exposed, Le Cinciole is slightly higher and predominately south-eastern exposure. What this means is that they get the morning sun, it is cooler overall and that creates wines of incredible balance combined with the power Panzano is known for.
Montalcino
Podere San Lorenzo is a third generation grape growing estate but a first generation wine prodcucing estate. They are located at some of the highest elevations (500 M ASL plus) in Montalcino and farm just shy of 7 hectares They are certified organic and count amongst their close neighbors, many of the most highly rated estates in the zone. Luciano Ciolfi, great grandson of the founder, Lorenzo Ferretti is the first to make wine commercially. His wines come across first and foremost, as authentic,traditional, examples of Brunello. I will even admit a tiny, welcome, note of old school rutiscity. They remind me of the Brunello I fell in love with almost 40 years ago and have been pining for since.